Few symbols are as instantly recognizable or universally cherished as the Hawaiian lei. Adorning necks and gracing occasions with their vibrant presence, leis carry centuries of tradition, artistry, and heartfelt meaning. They bridge the story of the islands to the people, transforming flowers, leaves, shells, and even feathers into more than ornaments—they become, quite simply, gifts of aloha.
From moments of celebration to expressions of sympathy, different types of leis speak a language all their own. Learning about the many styles and materials opens a new appreciation for their cultural depth and creative flair. Let’s take a closer look at what makes Hawaiian leis so special and the variety that brings them vividly to life.
The Deep Meaning of the Lei
A lei is much more than a garland or pretty accessory. In Hawaiian culture, giving or receiving a lei often marks an important event, honors a loved one, welcomes visitors, or says “thank you” or “farewell.” Each type of lei, and even the way it is worn, can signify unique intentions and respects. Placing a lei on someone is a warm gesture that might accompany a hug or a kiss on the cheek, depending on the setting.
Care, patience, and affection go into crafting each lei—it’s a process that involves the hands and the heart. Every lei is either a celebration or commemoration, with a meaning as personal as the occasion itself.
Traditional Lei Materials: Nature as Art
The materials chosen for a lei transform its presentation and meaning. The landscape of Hawaiʻi provides a stunning palette: fragrant flowers, glossy leaves, seeds, bright feathers, and even shells. Here are some of the classic botanical picks for leis in Honolulu, Oahu:
Flowers:
- Plumeria (Frangipani): Soft petals and sweet fragrance.
- Orchid: Sturdy, long-lasting, and elegant.
- Pikake: Delicately scented and used for romantic or bridal leis.
- Tuberose: Creamy white, intensely aromatic blossoms.
- Carnation: Bright, ruffled, and often used in graduation leis.
Leaves and Plants:
- Maile: An open, leafy lei with a woodsy scent, signifying respect and peace.
- Ti leaf: Woven or braided for prosperity and protection.
- Kukui nut: Shiny, black or brown nuts, sometimes painted or polished.
Specialty Elements:
- Shells: Rare and highly prized, especially the Ni‘ihau shell lei.
- Feathers: Lovingly crafted, especially for royalty.
- Seeds: Rudraksha, Job’s Tears, and other native seeds.
Many lei makers combine several elements to add texture, dimension, and color, creating something truly unique for each recipient.
Techniques: The Many Ways to Make a Lei
Hawaiian lei making is an art, with each style carrying its own significance and skill level. Over time, practitioners developed several main methods for threading, braiding, and assembling leis. Learn these basic techniques and you’ll begin to see the subtle distinctions among each lei you encounter.
Haku (Braided or Woven)
This technique weaves materials—often flowers and greenery—into a “lei po‘o,” or lei for the head. The braid may use three strands or more, with stems often left on for extra lushness. Haku leis are popular for weddings, hula dancers, and festive celebrations.
Photo: courtesy of Haku Maui
Kui (Sewing or Stringing)
The kui style involves stringing blossoms through the center with a needle and thread, much like making a flower necklace. Orchids, plumeria, and pikake are often arranged this way. Kui leis are the most recognizable, especially for welcoming visitors and for graduations.
Wili (Wrapping)
In this style, short lengths of flowers or leaves are wrapped around a core—such as raffia or heavy string—using a continuous spiral technique. Wili leis are tightly bound and can be quite intricate depending on the plant material used.
Hili (Braiding)
Hili means to braid. Traditionally, a hili lei is made from a single plant, like the ti leaf, intricately braided together without needles or thread.
Hipu’u (Knotting)
A simpler style, the hipu’u method uses a series of knots to bind flowers or foliage together. It’s often used for leis made entirely from ti leaves or long strands of grasses.
Table: Lei Techniques and Materials
|
Technique |
Typical Materials |
Occasions |
|---|---|---|
|
Haku |
Flowers, leaves |
Weddings, hula, celebrations |
|
Kui |
Flowers |
Welcome, graduation, common use |
|
Wili |
Mixed botanicals |
Formal ceremonies, gifts |
|
Hili |
Ti leaf, ferns |
Traditional observances |
|
Hipu’u |
Ti leaf, grasses |
Everyday wear, casual use |
Famous Types of Hawaiian Leis
A few distinct care goes into the most loved and iconic leis. Here are some that shine for their beauty and symbolic weight:
Maile Lei
The maile lei is among the most venerated, often given during weddings, significant ceremonies, and cultural rites. With its open, leafy style and gently woody aroma, the maile conveys honor and a sense of sacredness. In many traditions, the maile lei signifies the bond of peace or the end of conflict.
Orchid Lei
Known for its resilience and stunning range of colors, the orchid lei is probably the most familiar style seen around the world. It’s often purple or white but can also feature striking bicolored patterns. Because orchids are hardy and not prone to wilting, they’re perfect for events that last all day.
Plumeria Lei
Nothing evokes a sense of Hawai‘i quite like the plumeria blossom. These soft, delicate flowers have a wonderful fragrance and beautiful ombre hues ranging from pink and yellow to pure white. Plumeria leis are favorites for beach weddings or sunny summer gatherings.
Kukui Nut Lei
These glossy, dark brown nuts hold special meaning in Hawaiian culture, symbolizing enlightenment, protection, and peace. The kukui nut lei is versatile—worn alone or paired with flowers, it appears in both casual and dignified settings. They’re especially popular with men or given as graduation leis.
Ti Leaf Lei
Prized for its association with good luck and safeguarding, the ti leaf lei is braided, twisted, or knotted into a sturdy strand. Sometimes plain green, sometimes dressed up with flowers or ribbons, ti leaf leis can be very simple or elaborately crafted.
Ni‘ihau Shell Lei
If there’s a crown jewel among leis, it’s the Ni‘ihau shell lei. These artifacts are woven from tiny, rare shells found on Ni‘ihau, “the Forbidden Island.” Meticulously threaded and needing weeks or even months to create, these leis are collectibles and family heirlooms.
Lei Etiquette: Giving, Receiving, and Wearing
The custom and care around leis stretch far beyond simply putting flowers together. There are social and cultural courtesies that reflect the heart of Hawaiian hospitality.
- It’s respectful to receive a lei graciously, accepting it with a smile and wearing it immediately.
- If a lei feels uncomfortable, it’s fine to drape it over your shoulder.
- Leis are never thrown away in the rubbish; instead, they’re returned to nature by placing them in the ocean, burying them, or hanging them from a tree.
- Never refuse a lei, as it can be seen as rejecting the giver’s affection or good intentions.
- It’s thoughtful to avoid giving closed lei to pregnant women, as open-ended leis are considered more appropriate.
Familiarity with these customs emphasizes the shared spirit that a lei represents—a tangible circle of aloha.
Celebrations and Modern Touches
Graduations, milestone birthdays, anniversaries, and arrivals see leis at the center of the action. Schools and families pile leis high on graduates, symbolizing pride, achievement, and community. The annual May Day in Honolulu, Oahu festivities feature lei contests, crowning the best in artistry and creativity.
Modern lei makers bring new ideas to this old tradition. Incorporating local and seasonal flowers from around the world, they often mix in tropical ginger, bougainvillea, exotic berries, or even fabric and satin to create lasting keepsakes. Some bridal parties request theme-colored leis or those with custom scents and textures.
Professionally crafted leis now travel globally to delight recipients far beyond the islands. DIY kits and online lei makers share the tradition with a new, enthusiastic audience.
Keeping the Spirit Alive
Whether made with roses or shells, braided with ti leaf or woven with feathers, Hawaiian leis speak of friendship, reverence, and joy. They connect wearers to ancient stories and to each other, keeping the meaning vibrant every time one is given, received, or remembered.
Every lei is a small work of art and an expression of love, a reminder that the beauty we create for each other matters, perhaps most when it’s shared.
